Experiencing Devizes Ways on Market Days; a Special Case for a Town of Culture 2028

Sketches and Written by Brian Edwards

If not too distracted when bumping into townsfolk and village friends, you might remember to get more of a cheese you liked or that essential part for the vacuum cleaner…..

As regular readers of Devizine will know, one of the understated pleasures of Devizes is having a wander around on market days. From the listed buildings to the independent shops, our market day wanderings are significantly enhanced by the character of the townโ€™s historic environment, and an enduring community spirit enriches the charming thoroughfares and myriad of routeways to and from the Market Place.

Farmers & Artisan Market

In 1724 the famous antiquary William Stukeley believed Devizes hosted โ€˜one of the best weekly markets in Englandโ€™. In the previous century the Wiltshire born antiquary John Aubrey thought Devizes hosted the best fish market in Wiltshire, and in the early 16th century that father of English history, John Leland, stated the โ€˜market is very celebrateโ€™. The townโ€™s Thursday market dates to at least 1609, a regular potter around market stalls in Devizes dates to at least 1228 and around the stalls at fairs even earlier that century.

Hence, those visiting the Thursday market in the present are directly linking with a tradition that has periodically been celebrated as noteworthy and has survived hundreds of years of change. And because of this, your present day experience of the cultural footprint could prove influential.

The Brittox: Devizes Jubilee Morris celebrate 2021’s ‘Devizes is Open’ event following the Covid restrictions, and Daddy Longlegs entertain on Easter Monday 2026.

A Town of Culture?

Having been ranked third among the countryโ€™s most quintessential market towns in 2025, Devizes is now bidding to become the U.K. Town of Culture 2028, which offers a top prize of ยฃ3 million as just one of a rollout of substantial financial awards. Towns must at this stage hope to have matched the relevant competition criteria to make the shortlist, which would elicit a ยฃ60,000 grant to support the development of a full application.

In addition to a famous flight of Georgian canal locks and a globally important collection in the Wiltshire Museum on Long Street, Devizes also has a reputation for a busy seasonal programme of festivals, markets and other social and educational events in addition to many places of worship, cultural hubs and active clubs. The lengthy list of cultural happenings covers anything from wildlife to nightlife and every experience from a punishing Westminster canoe race to tinsel tractor runs. The flip side is potentially overlooking something each of us does with regularity without ever thinking how rich and diverse it is in terms of a cultural experience.

Stalls in The Shambles

What might a Town of Culture look, sound and smell like?

If you are familiar with the sights, sounds and smells of a market day mooch, then you may no longer notice the familiar market day hubbub: a soundtrack punctuated by the calls, banter and chats with market traders. You may not give a second thought to the welcome and directions you offered a newbie visitor. You will though notice the music, dance and drama brought by street entertainers, and the art that may be encountered in many forms from the stalls to the windows and interiors of independent shops.

The Ginnel

โ€˜Tell us about the unique story and culture of your town.โ€™

Few will have heard of the once legally renowned court case โ€˜The Mayor and Burgesses of Devizes v. Clark,โ€™ that established the right of a jury to find a general verdict. The unique precedent from 1835 is possibly overlooked now and the butcher Jacob Clark of Maryport Street is entirely forgotten.

The gist of this court case was that Clark sold meat from his home on two successive Thursdays in 1833, when the Corporation held the right to charge butchers to sell to the public from their market stalls.

What interests us with the Town of Culture bid in mind, is not only that the Corporation established in law that their market and right to charge for stalls was ancient, but the arguments that were detailed about the civil authority customarily maintaining a safe adequate โ€˜knownโ€™ environment, where โ€˜large assemblagesโ€™ of the public can bear witness to transactions and events without travelling any great distance. It could have been written with the criteria set by the Town of Culture in mind.

The official Town of Culture requirements include a safe, supportive, nonโ€‘discriminatory environment accessible to all ages – a programme that reaches multiple audiences and offers opportunities for creative content – evidence of capacity, capability, and effective processes to deliver the programme successfully – strengthening or rejuvenating cultural and heritage infrastructure with realistic expectations. The history and modern day experience of the market in Devizes delivers all this and more.

Lilly waits in anticipation outside the bakery.

โ€˜Culture is for Everyoneโ€™

We may never stop to think about it, but a magnificent cross section of local, regional and distant communities are represented on market days. From villagers to townsfolk and tourists threading their way around, to street performers, grassroots artists and other creatively active innovators; market days welcomes them all.

Every decade within living memory is represented on the townโ€™s pavements, and anyone and everyone that isnโ€™t housebound is unconsciously participating in a market day pageant. From prams and pushchairs to rollator walkers, wheelchairs and mobility scooters; these enabling wheeled wonders of our age are everywhere to be witnessed, as are many a responsible human with their pet dog on a lead.

Just sit on any bench in the Brittox and witness how many times you are lapped by elderly phone scrollers, middle age headphone wearers and teenage skateboarders. They are not all in their own world of course: a street performer recently remarked how young people engage with the informal music in the Brittox, stopping to listen and throwing coins into a hat or guitar case.

As outlandish as it may seem then, your wanderings on a Thursday could bear witness to an experience that ticks all the criteria boxes to underpin a bid to become the U.K. Town of Culture 2028. There is surely nothing that is more inclusive, culturally rich and diverse in our lives than a weekly market day dawdle in Devizes. This cultural experience is for everyone from their pram to their very last leg and it is entirely free at the point of delivery.


Acknowledgements

Many thanks to our friends โ€˜shop indie InDevizesโ€™ for both the excellent map and much encouragement https://www.indevizes.org.uk/

Many thanks also to David Dawson, Devizes Jubilee Morris and Daddy Longlegs for their assistance. Many thanks also to all the wonderful dogs and humans that featured in doodles which were redrawn and moved around to work up the final sketches.

Brian Edwards is a Visiting Research Fellow at The Regional History Centre, UWE Bristol.


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Tastebud Heaven on the Canal; Sunday Lunch at The Water Gypsy

If options for urbanites seeking experiential or themed dining experiences are boundless, theyโ€™re lesser so in our rural backwaters. Yet, weโ€™ve returned from a delicious and most memorable Sunday lunch at The Water Gypsy, a working longboat pop-up licensed restaurant cruising the Kennet & Avon Canal; itโ€™s the unique and enjoyable experience you really need to sample for yourselfโ€ฆ..

In order to do so you can either check their website or social media for availability and mooring in your area, as they stop at various locations throughout the summer, autumn and Christmas seasonโ€ฆ. but chase them up and book you must! This spring season has started their third year, and its popularity is such it gets booked quickly. Until your lucky occasion, I can only try to express in words just how scrumptious and wonderful our experience of it was, and boy, it was!

Drawn to The Shed at Dulwich social experiment, where pranksters tricked TripAdvisor into ranking their shed #1 restaurant in London, to the โ€œmiddle ageโ€ scene in Monty Pythonโ€™s Meaning of Life, where Idle and Jones play an American couple dining in a torture chamber, some quirky dining enterprises can be unnecessarily extreme, some exploit desire to discover unique dining experiences rather than conform to parochial restaurant culture. Howbeit, if seeking such experiences you must, The Water Gypsy presents a most honourable, comforting and hospitable repast; Polly and Hank run the show, balance cooking with being perfect hosts, and stop at nothing to ensure youโ€™re fed in finest fettle.

Being theyโ€™re currently moored in Devizes, it was a short appetite-boosting walk along the towpath and we boarded this beautifully decorated and pristine boat, warmed by a log burner, welcomed affectionately and seated on the only communal table set for twelve guests. You could liken the reception, and the whole occasion, more to a dinner party than sitting alone in a restaurant.

Life on the canal may not always be the romantic setting of freedom preconceived, but The Water Gypsy hones on that idyllic image, glimpses into the fantastical.

Drinks are served, and you are not rushed here. Itโ€™s all finest ingredients, homemade and using local produce, which they proudly transform into tapas-style plates that celebrate sharing and connection. A grazing board, chockfull of dips and tapenade arrived, with pesto topped crostini, charcuterie skewers antipastisti with melon, avocado & prawns, Moroccan carrot puff pastry with orange and thyme syrup, and harissa tahini yoghurt, and, and, oh, look Iโ€™m no Jay Rayner, donโ€™t even sport a goatee, Iโ€™m only now aware how my tastebuds will love me forevermore!

Pescatarian and vegan are catered for, but our main courses were beef estofado, a scrummy slow-cooked Peruvian stew, and delicately sliced hasselback potatoes, sticky pork glazed in garlic and ginger, with spicy Asian broccoli, and chicken tikka skewers with tomato saladโ€ฆ.need I say more for clues to the way to my heart? Food heaven in gypsy ornamentation charm, canalside!

A perfectly baked brownie with strawberries and ice cream polished me off, though the other choice was a rather smashing looking cheese board, which Newsquest reporter Jamie opted for, and while tempted to nick his grapes, such was the hospitable atmosphere and such was the gorgeous food so beautifully presented, I thought Iโ€™d best behave!

Herein arrives the time when, in a typical restaurant, youโ€™re encouraged to get your coat, but Iโ€™ve already observed a washtub and broomhandle propped up in the corner, and identified their owners; weโ€™re in for some entertainment, and I couldnโ€™t think of anyone more apt for the occasion.

Polly wants Sunday afternoons to have an additional live music finale, and while weโ€™ve pondered some alternatives, boaters themselves, Nipper and Jellylegs Johnson drop in to tantalise us audibly the same way and with the same proficiency Polly has done with our palate. Itโ€™s a show you could never tire from, nor find fault with. The Devilโ€™s Doorbell, cheeky, quirky duo passionately recreating jazz and blues roots with homemade instruments, skiffle, bucketloads of charisma and more double entendres than Finbar Saunders remaking the entire backlog of Carry-On films.

There was an encore singalong, and with conversation and wine flowing, the atmosphere was unlike anything youโ€™d find at a restaurant. The Water Gypsy is, by very definition, the most pleasant and divine, not to mention scrummy, dining experience this side of Milliways, Douglas Adams’ Restaurant at the End of the Universe, only this one is a bit closer, just along the towpath!


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Harmony Asia Can Do This

Itโ€™s a question Iโ€™ve asked Chippenham singer-songwriter Harmony Asia on each rare occasion I catch her for a chat; if sheโ€™s planning to capture aโ€ฆ

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Goodbye to The Beanery but Hollychocs Lives On

Popular award-winning artisan chocolate business Hollychocs has announced that its Beanery Cafรฉ will close on Saturday 23rd August, marking exactly two years since its opening in Poulshot, near Devizesโ€ฆ.

Founded by award-winning chocolatier Holly Garner, Hollychocs has become a much-loved fixture in the local community, known not just for its handcrafted chocolates but for creating a warm, welcoming space for chocolate lovers to connect, indulge and experience the very best chocolate in the Southwest.

โ€œThis decision hasnโ€™t come lightly,โ€ said Holly. โ€œSam and I have poured so much into the cafรฉโ€”working long days, championing other small businesses and suppliers and welcoming thousands of people through our doors. The support from our community has meant everything.โ€

The closure comes amidst rising costs that have impacted many small businesses across the country. โ€œWeโ€™ve tried everythingโ€”from constantly creating new menu offerings, to introducing special offers,โ€ Holly added. โ€œIn the end, the increased labour costs paired with price increases across the board, have made it time to focus our energy on a future thatโ€™s sustainable for us, our chocolate, and the people behind it.โ€

Yet this opens a new chapter for Hollychocs. Although the cafรฉ will no longer offer drop-in visits, Hollychocs will continue to host a wide range of bookable chocolate experiences from their studio just outside Devizes. These include guided tastings, chocolate-making workshops, and sit-down afternoon teasโ€”already popular with locals and visitors alike.

Hollychocsโ€™ full product range will also remain available for UK-wide delivery and click & collect. Sheโ€™s just released a Hollychocs version of the viral sensation Dubai Bar and has plans to increase her postbox-friendly chocolate gifts which are an increasingly popular way of sending a thoughtful gift.

They will also be focusing more on Corporate Gifting and Wholesale opportunities both locally and nationally.

โ€œWeโ€™re not going anywhere,โ€ Holly assured. โ€œWeโ€™re simply shifting focusโ€”putting our efforts into the parts of the business we know can sustain us in the long term.โ€

The final day of trading at the Beanery Cafรฉ will take place on Saturday 23rd August, and the team welcomes the community to pop in for one last drink or treat.

โ€œWeโ€™d love to see some familiar faces before we close the doors,โ€ said Holly. โ€œWeโ€™re so proud of what weโ€™ve builtโ€”and incredibly grateful to everyone in Wiltshire whoโ€™s supported us on this journey.โ€

Devizine wishes Holly and the team all the best with progressing this delicious brand. It’s a shame to hear about The Beanery but I believe they’ve made the sensible decision.


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Vegan for Life, not just for Christmas!

Thinking of going vegan? Maybe after your turkey and pigs in blankets?! I have a chat about the possibilities, lifestyle and, you know me, a number of silly tangents, with Wiltshire foodie blogger Jill; to see if she can convert me! ย 

I dissented my daughterโ€™s culinary request on peculiar grounds; two everyday objects, sausages and bacon, when the latter is wrapped around the other, are, for some outlandish reason, a treat retained for Christmas dinner only, and to have them on our mid-December roast dinner would spoil the magic of the imminent feast. But once served, I ate โ€˜em anyway!

An oddity, why certain things, like Brussel sprouts are attributed only to Christmas dinner and eating them at any other time is like swearing at a vicar. Absorbed by the explicit naming of pigs in blankets too, like a hog-roast or rabbit stew, and unlike venison or beef, they donโ€™t attempt to disguise the notion youโ€™re munching on dead animal. Rather celebrate pride in the fact.

Such is my allure for something in blankets, if not pigs, I was intrigued by a recipe for a vegan alternative on a local based website, Especially Vegan. The siteโ€™s creator, Jill, uses parsnips wrapped in vegan bacon. I quiver at meat alternatives, but love a good parsnip; becoming vegetarian is something although I consider pursuing, I never attain. I blame pigs in blankets; oh, the smell of bacon cooking, chicken and numerous other dishes of godโ€™s creatures great and small.

Roasted Butternut-Squash Skin & Seeds

However much I preach about environmental issues, I find the idea we all must go vegan the hardest pill to swallow. On principle I agree, but the reality, the golden aura of a roasted chicken, just overrides my carnal appetite and I cave helplessly like the carnivorous beast I am. If it was going to happen, youโ€™d have thought my years working at a butcher, skinning rabbits and watching turkeys meeting their maker might have dissuaded me.

Can Jill help? Especially Vegan is a fantastic website, chockful of hints, tips and recipes. Can Jill convince someone as thick skinned as me to turn vegan? No, not really, sheโ€™s not the pushy type. โ€œThatโ€™s the thing,โ€ she explained, โ€œI am not trying to change your mind. I would like a happier world, you know, world peace,โ€ she laughed.

โ€œI am not trying to change your mind. I would like a happier world, you know, world peace.”

Rather stereotypical of vegans, they rarely preach or thrust their ideas down your throat. Perhaps this is the undoing, I need the direct approach, a seven-foot skinhead vegan to order me to give up   hotdog-stuffed pizza, or else!

I put it to Jill I could meet her halfway, reduce my meat allowance by 50%. Environmentally if everyone did, weโ€™d reduce carbon emissions from 18% to 9%. โ€œI feel we should all make our own choices about what we eat,โ€ Jill clarified, โ€œbut obviously, the more those choices are based on the environment and health and, for me personally, animal welfare, the better.โ€ A dislike of meat-eating is perhaps the most common reason, Jill wrote a post on the blog explaining why she became a vegan; โ€œin recent years itโ€™s more about health for a lot of people. For me it’s always been about animals.โ€ I was still keen to gage her on her feelings about the environmental impact of not turning vegan.

Vegan Couscous & Halloumi Salad

โ€œAbsolutely,โ€ she replied, โ€œit has a big influence now. But not when I ‘turned’ back in the nineties! I feel any reason that people eat less meat is a good thing. It is fact now, regardless of what the meat industry says, less meat will help the planet. But there are other things we could all do that will also help.โ€ Jill continued on recycling and the supermarkets cutting down on packaging. โ€œI also know that cost is a big factor.  When low-income families can buy cheaper meat due to the way it is farmed, they may have no choice.  I think the government should make well-bred and cared for animal meat affordable for all.โ€

But if you know the methods, I figured, most of the recipes on Especially Vegan wouldnโ€™t break the bank. It was Jillโ€™s husband who came up with the idea for Especially Vegan, in May, and the blog was launched in August. โ€œSo,โ€ Jill enlightened, โ€œitโ€™s still quite small but growing weekly.โ€

Jill still cooks meat for her friends and family, โ€œthat’s their choice,โ€ and was keen to point out her blog is not just for vegans. โ€œI take the meat, etc, out of recipes I like, so there’s no reason why people can’t add meat to my recipes. The hope is that they will try it my way. So, try parsnips but with your bacon!โ€

“There’s no reason why people can’t add meat to my recipes. The hope is that they will try it my way….”

Jill was direct when I asked if she felt thereโ€™s a lot of misguided information, “meat propaganda” which ridicules or gives incorrect facts about vegans? โ€œYes, I do. I havenโ€™t researched it fully myself because I do not preach about being vegan, my choice!ย  However, I do belong to some Facebook groups and see posts about industry starting rumours about vegans and it being a dreadful, non-healthy diet.ย  I am pleased to say, I have thrived on it for over twenty-two years and have never taken a supplement, which is another area for misguided influence from the drug companies who sell supplements.โ€

I did read the blogpost on her not taking vitamin supplements; it’s necessity to is a given stereotype, isnโ€™t it? โ€œYes, a stereotype!โ€ Jill replied, โ€œhowever, not everyone can absorb vitamins naturally and do need help. But, not just vegans. There are a couple of things that are a little more difficult to obtain as a vegan. B12 – I get from marmite and fortified cereals and milks. And the new one is Vitamin D.ย  Which can be an issue, but if you are careful and research your dietary needs well, then it can be overcome. However, I am not saying there is not a need, but that need could be for anyone whose body needs it, non-vegans too!โ€

Vegan Date & Nut Chocolates

If I was going to consider this, is it a good idea to dip my toe in the water, you know, try being a vegetarian first, or diving right in to vegan?

โ€œWay back when,โ€ Jill elucidated, โ€œI didn’t really know much about veganism, so vegetarianism was the way for me.ย  It was only later as I learnt more about vegetarianism that veganism crept into what I was reading. No internet to hand back then, like it is today.ย  And cheese was the hardest for me to give up when I turned vegan. I think with all the info there is today, and you are really sure itโ€™s what you want, then, yeah, head straight in.ย  But otherwise, take it slow.ย  If itโ€™s your end goal, the importance is getting there, not how fast you get there.โ€ Meat was Jillโ€™s favourite thing on her plate, growing up, and said she couldnโ€™t stand vegetables. Internet or not, though, I wasnโ€™t put off by Icelandโ€™s chicken tikka lasagne; itโ€™s surely too late for me!

“Cheese was the hardest for me to give up when I turned vegan.”

The internet is an information minefield. I typed into Google: “do we need to go vegan to…” intending to add โ€œenvironment,โ€ but a more popular choice suggestion freaked me out. It was “…to get into heaven?!” Seems people use the word of god to encourage their own opinion on it. Thereโ€™s some shocking stuff suggesting you’re on your way to hell for not eating meat! But equally thereโ€™s many who say, and I’d agree, if I wasnโ€™t an atheist, you’d be a higher tier in heaven for not eating God’s creatures.

โ€œSay no more!โ€ Jill agreed, even as a bellringer, โ€œI have to honestly say, what a load of rubbish. But that’s what happens with everything, there will always be people out there who say stuff like that. Iโ€™m sat here with a G & T so I must be heading downwards, surely; but it is vegan!โ€

The Especially Vegan website has hosted events and cookery courses, and offers a free tapas recipe eBook on signup. I asked Jill what was next, if a paperback was an option. โ€œI will try to grow it and, yes, would love to have some books in print, also looking to develop a YouTube channel, but for now, I will just keep developing and adding recipes to the blog. It would be lovely to have friendly people subscribe as that’s an incentive to keep going.โ€

Our chat drifted on tangents hereafter, ending with me waffling. I cannot believe I bought up the subject of Douglas Adamsโ€™ ironic โ€œAmegluan Cow,โ€ with a vegan; an animal which wants to be eaten. Served live it offers the diners its rump or its organs, and theyโ€™re horrified, save for the alien Zaphod Beeblebrox, who offered to Arthur Dent that he would gladly eat a creature which didnโ€™t want to be eaten. Furthermore, the Ameglian Cow added many vegetables were “very clear” on the point of not wanting to be eaten!

Mind you, Jill bought up a horrible scene in The Waking Dead, where they ate a horse, likened it to Tesco’s burgers, and suggested she hoped she never meets an Ameglian Cow.

But she was an endearing and interesting person to chat with, and Especially Vegan is a well-written, personal styled foodie blog, you should check it out. I noted my sad hypocrisy, given the horsemeat refraction, as I wouldnโ€™t eat nice and fluffy animals. But perhaps my hypocrisy is my reason for an interest in veganism.

Jill mentioned how horrified she was by shark catching fishermen who put big hooks through live dogsโ€™ jaws. She can be horrified, but I’m a hypocrite for being equally horrified, does she think?

โ€œNo,โ€ she replied, โ€œjust the way we are.โ€ See, a genuinely nice person, and she left pondering her next recipe post, orange zest cake. Nice, in my mind I’m there already!